Ron Zacapa 23 is a rum that polarises opinion like few others. Its admirers — and there are many — praise its extraordinary smoothness and layered complexity. Its detractors argue that the addition of sugar and caramel compromises its integrity. What is beyond dispute is that it is one of the most commercially successful premium rums in the world, and its production method is genuinely unusual.
The rum is distilled from virgin sugarcane honey — the first pressing of the cane — rather than molasses, at Industrias Licoreras de Guatemala. It is then aged using a solera system at an altitude of 2,300 metres above sea level in Quetzaltenango, where the cool mountain air slows the ageing process dramatically. The "23" refers not to a minimum age statement but to the oldest rums in the solera, which range from six to twenty-three years. The blend passes through American white oak, Pedro Ximénez sherry, and ex-Cognac barrels during its maturation.
On the Nose
The nose is luxurious — rich caramel and toffee, butterscotch, and a deep vanilla sweetness that borders on confectionery. There are notes of dark chocolate, coffee, and dried fruit — particularly raisin and date from the PX sherry influence. Orange peel and honey add brightness, while a subtle oak spice provides structure. It is an enormously appealing nose, sweet and inviting.
The Palate
On the palate, Zacapa 23 is remarkably smooth — almost unnaturally so, which is the source of much debate. The entry is sweet and round, with toffee, butterscotch, and dark chocolate leading. The PX sherry influence is prominent, bringing dried fruit richness and a wine-like quality. Vanilla and caramel are ever-present, while warm spices — cinnamon, nutmeg, and allspice — add complexity. The mouthfeel is full-bodied and silky, with a viscous quality that coats the palate.
The Finish
The finish is long and sweet, with lingering toffee, dark chocolate, and dried fruit. The oak asserts itself gently at the end, providing a welcome dryness that prevents the sweetness from cloying. There is a final note of coffee and honey that provides a satisfying conclusion.
Zacapa 23 is best enjoyed neat, preferably after dinner, where its dessert-like qualities are most appropriate. In cocktails, its sweetness can overwhelm, though a Zacapa Old Fashioned — made with restraint on the sugar — can be exceptional. Whatever one's view on its production methods, there is no denying that this is a rum crafted with extraordinary care and skill.
